Which designer had which impact on the further existance of couture?
As the couture shows Spring/Summer 2018 passed by in January this year, there’s a lot of fashion talk, depending on couture’s ongoing existence and how it can survive. From fairytale looks with a bold silhouette and businessike elements, but most importantly a hint at the womens current standpoint in society, at Valentino to sustainably crafted ruffle creatures at Viktor & Rolf to undefined shapes in deconstructed pleats at Margiela last year (A/W 2017/18). It’s everything relevant for the future world, that is able to ensure the further existance of couture- diagnosis rising.
Here’s what Valentino named the dresses after!
“I hate when they’re called ‘petite mains’” Piccioli, sole creative director, told Vogue’s Sarah Mower. “They are not ‘hands,’ they’re people.” The designer decided to name the dresses of the Haute Couture S/S 2018 Show after the name of the couturier who actually sew it. As we probably all realized, the positioning of the women is a highly discussed topic in fashion, reaching out to an even wider public since the publishing of the Harvey Weinstein facts. Piccioli maybe hinted to this topic. Sure is, that he catches the spirit of the times in a way, right? Nice to see, that the Zeitgeist of fashion, probably hugely boosted by the #metoo happenings, slowly seems to get an entrace into couture, too – Valentino’s impact for couture to still be relevant in the future.
Valentino Haute Couture S/S 2018 dresses are named after their couturiers.
This is the impact by Viktor & Rolf!
Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture S/S 2018 brought sustainability to the couture shows this year. The design team worked exclusively with one material to maintain ressources. It’s a “Satin Duchesse”: kind of a solid satin with wonderful shininess. Working with one fabrics challenges designers even more, because they have to think about, how to change them for an interesting design result. They showed, that dyeing, treating and reworking one fabric can be as versatile, as using a bunch of diffent fabrics as you can see below. Sustainability, as a future relevant topic, is Viktor & Rolf’s impact for couture to still be relevant in the future.
Viktor & Rolf Haute Couture F/W 2018 integrating sustainability.
Margiela already broke design rules and catches the unexpected!
To hold this article a little unexpected, too, I decided to not take the latest, but the next-to-last season from Maison Margiela. Past year Margiela let those loose as well as tight fit archetype descendants wave across the runway. In this last years collection we got the feeling, that the designer sets new requirements for designing couture. The design team hinted at the cut and shape of a Trenchcoat, a by designers often selected archetype to be deconstructed, with a closely pleated, transparent, light weight looking fabric: two complete opposites. What an interesting combination, presenting new rules for clothing to be designed. New directions for designs to be set up including deconstruction and something unexpected, is Margiela’s impact on the further existance of couture.
Margiela Haute Couture Fall/Winter 2017/2018 setting new rules in deconstructing and producing the unexpected.
This years couture collection by Maison Margiela is a similar exciting story! In my next post I will unreveal a broadened insight to the Margiela Haute Couture Show S/S 2018.
Stay tuned to not miss those news!